How to Care for Monstera: 15 Expert Tips for Healthy Growth & Bigger Leaves

Introduction

I bought my first Monstera three years ago. It had four small, heart-shaped leaves and not a single split or hole.

I was sure I’d have fenestrated leaves, the kind with the Swiss-cheese holes, within months. I didn’t. What I got was yellow leaves, leggy stems and a plant that looked like it was giving up.

Today that same Monstera has 18 leaves and stands over 4 feet tall, and the newest leaves have the splits and holes I was waiting for. It wasn’t luck. It came down to learning what a Monstera needs and which mistakes to avoid.

This guide covers light, watering, soil and how to encourage leaf splits, plus the problems I ran into and how I fixed them.

Quick Answer: Monstera Care at a Glance

Watering typically works out to every 1-2 weeks in spring and summer. Use well-draining soil with perlite and bark, feed monthly during the growing season (April-September), and give the plant a moss pole or stake to climb.

The two most common mistakes are too little light and overwatering. Both can cause yellow leaves, and low light in particular keeps leaves from splitting.

Monstera Quick Care Chart

What Is a Monstera Plant?

Monstera deliciosa goes by many names: Swiss Cheese Plant, Split-leaf Philodendron, or simply “that plant from Instagram.”

It’s native to the tropical rainforests of Central America and southern Mexico, where it grows as a climbing vine, scaling large trees toward the light. According to Wikipedia, wild specimens can reach up to 70 feet tall. Indoors, expect a maximum of about 9 feet, which is still impressive for a houseplant.

The National Garden Bureau named 2025 the “Year of the Monstera,” recognizing its popularity and easy-care reputation.

Why the holes? The usual explanation is that, in nature, the fenestrations (the technical term for the leaf holes and splits) let sunlight pass through the upper leaves to reach the foliage below.

How Much Light Does a Monstera Need?

Light is usually the biggest factor in how a Monstera grows. If it’s wrong, everything else becomes an uphill battle.

The ideal: bright, indirect light, such as near a window where sunlight fills the room but doesn’t directly hit the leaves.

I learned this the hard way. My first Monstera sat in a north-facing room for six months. It survived, but it was miserable: leggy stems, pale leaves and no fenestrations.

When I moved it to an east-facing window with bright morning light, everything changed. Eight months later, I saw my first split leaf.

Signs Your Monstera Needs More Light

• Leaves stay solid with no splits or holes
• Stems become long and stretched (leggy growth)
• Leaf color looks pale or washed out
• Growth slows down significantly

Signs of Too Much Direct Light

• Brown, crispy patches on leaves (sunburn)
• Bleached or faded leaf color
• Curling leaf edges

Tip: Rotate the pot a quarter turn each time you water so all sides get equal light and growth stays even.

If your space gets little natural light, a Snake Plant handles low light much better than a Monstera.

How Often Should I Water My Monstera?

Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry.

For most homes, that means every 1-2 weeks in spring and summer. In winter, growth slows, and you can stretch it to every 3-4 weeks.

But forget rigid schedules. Your Monstera doesn’t know it’s Saturday.

My method: I push a finger into the soil up to my second knuckle. If it feels dry, I water. If it’s still damp, I wait a few more days.

How to Water Properly

1. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom holes.
2. Empty the saucer after 30 minutes so the plant isn’t sitting in water.
3. For large pots that are hard to move, use a turkey baster to remove excess water. This trick saved me.

Overwatering vs. Underwatering: How to Tell the Difference

Watering Problem Diagnosis

Overwatering is one of the most common ways people lose a Monstera. When in doubt, wait another day before watering.

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Best Soil Mix for Monstera

Monstera roots need air. Standard potting soil on its own can hold too much moisture and suffocate the roots, leading to root rot.

My go-to mix:

• 2 parts indoor potting soil
• 1 part perlite
• 1 part orchid bark

This mix drains quickly but still holds some moisture.

When and How to Repot

Your Monstera probably needs a bigger pot if:

• Roots are growing out of the drainage holes
• The soil dries out within a day or two
• Growth has stalled despite good light
• The plant is top-heavy and tips over

Best timing: early spring, just before the growing season starts.

Pot size: go up only 1-2 inches in diameter. A bigger jump can leave the soil wet for too long.

My mistake: I once repotted into a pot far too large. The soil stayed soggy for weeks, and I nearly lost the plant to root rot.

Creating the Perfect Environment: Humidity and Temperature

Monstera is adaptable, but it does best in conditions close to its tropical home.

Ideal humidity: 50-60%. Most homes sit around 30-50%, which is usually fine, but if you notice brown, crispy leaf edges, humidity may be the cause.

Ideal temperature: 65-85°F (18-29°C). Keep your Monstera away from cold drafts, air conditioning vents and heating units.

Warning: Temperatures below 50°F can cause cold damage. Don’t leave your Monstera outside overnight if temperatures are dropping.

How to Increase Humidity

• Use a humidifier – The most effective option
• Pebble tray – Fill a tray with pebbles and water, then place the pot on top
• Group plants together – They create a mini humid microclimate

What I don’t recommend: misting. It provides only temporary humidity, and constantly wet leaves can invite fungal problems.

If you’re building an indoor jungle, Pothos makes a good companion. Its care needs are nearly identical, and it looks great alongside Monstera.

How to Feed Your Monstera

When to fertilize: only during the growing season, April through September.

Frequency: once a month works for most liquid fertilizers. Some people prefer half-strength every two weeks.

What to use: a balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or 5-2-3 NPK) does the job.

Winter care: stop fertilizing or cut back to once every 6-8 weeks. The plant isn’t actively growing, so it doesn’t need the extra nutrients.

Warning: more fertilizer isn’t better. Overfertilizing can cause salt buildup in the soil, leading to brown leaf tips and root damage. If you see white, crusty buildup on the soil surface, flush it with plain water.

How to Get Your Monstera Leaves to Split

This is the question I get asked most, and it’s what frustrated me most during my first year.

The short answer: three things matter most: adequate light, plant maturity and climbing support.

Why Your Monstera Leaves Have No Holes

Reason #1: Not enough light. This is the most common cause. In low light, a Monstera uses every bit of its leaf surface for photosynthesis and can’t “afford” to put holes in the leaves.

Reason #2: The plant is too young. Many Monstera take 2-3 years to start producing fenestrated leaves, so patience matters.

Reason #3: No climbing support. In nature, fenestrations appear as a Monstera climbs higher toward the light. Without something to climb, your plant may not develop splits.

Reason #4: Recently propagated. Cuttings often produce juvenile leaves at first and need time to mature again.

My Experience Getting Fenestrations

My Monstera went eight months without producing a single fenestrated leaf. I kept waiting, kept watering and kept hoping, but nothing changed.

At the time, it was sitting in a north-facing room. I’d assumed Monstera could handle low light because everyone called it “easy.”

Finally, I moved it to an east-facing window with bright morning light and added a moss pole to encourage upward growth. Six months later, I spotted my first split: just two small holes, but I was thrilled.

Three years in, the newest leaves have the full Swiss-cheese pattern, and the largest one has eight fenestrations.

After 2 years my Monstera finally put out its first fenestrated leaf!
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Tips to Encourage Splits

How to Get Fenestrated Leaves

Why Your Monstera Needs Support

Monstera is a climbing plant. In nature, it scales trees and anchors itself with aerial roots.

Without support indoors, you may see:

• The plant sprawling and tipping over
• Leaves staying smaller
• Fenestrations failing to develop

I found out how much it matters while dusting leaves one day, when the whole plant toppled off its shelf and several stems ripped from the main plant. Since then, every one of my Monstera gets support.

Support Options

Moss pole: closest to natural conditions. Aerial roots can actually grow into the damp moss.

Bamboo stakes: budget-friendly and effective. Use 3-4 stakes arranged in a square for stability.

Trellis: good for creating specific shapes or training growth in a particular direction.

How to attach: use soft Velcro plant tape or cloth strips. Don’t use wire, which can cut into stems as they grow.

How to Propagate Monstera Successfully

Propagating Monstera is surprisingly easy, as long as you follow one rule.

Every cutting must include a node.

A node is the small bump on the stem where leaves emerge, and it’s where new roots will grow. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, cuttings without nodes cannot develop roots and will eventually die.

What NOT to Do

❌ Cutting just a leaf without a node – It’ll look pretty in water for a while, then slowly yellow and die

❌ Cutting too short without aerial roots – Lower success rate

❌ Propagating in winter – Growth is too slow, and the risk of rot increases

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Step-by-Step Water Propagation

1. Find a healthy stem with at least one node (look for a bump or aerial root)
2. Using clean, sharp scissors, cut 1-2 inches below the node
3. Remove lower leaves, keeping 1-2 at the top
4. Place the cutting in clean water with the node submerged
5. Change the water every 3-4 days to prevent bacterial growth
6. Wait 2-4 weeks for roots to develop
7. Once roots reach 4-6 inches, transplant to soil

Timeline Expectations

• Visible roots: 2-4 weeks
• Ready to transplant: 1-2 months
• First new leaf: 2-3 months after planting

Propagation works almost the same way as it does for Pothos, so if you’ve propagated Pothos before, Monstera will feel familiar.

Troubleshooting Your Monstera: Common Problems and Solutions

Yellow Leaves

Yellow leaves are the #1 complaint I hear from Monstera owners, and several different problems can cause them.

Cause #1: Overwatering (most common). Check your soil. If it’s soggy or smells musty, you’re watering too much. Let the soil dry out before watering again.

Cause #2: Underwatering. Look for crispy brown edges alongside the yellowing. If the soil is bone dry and pulling away from the pot, water more consistently.

Cause #3: Insufficient light. Pale yellow leaves combined with slow growth often signal a light problem. Move the plant to a brighter spot.

Cause #4: Normal aging. Lower, older leaves naturally yellow and die as the plant matures. If it’s just one or two bottom leaves and the rest look healthy, there’s usually nothing to worry about.

Brown Leaf Tips

Brown, crispy leaf tips usually point to one of these issues:

• Low humidity – Increase moisture in the air with a humidifier
• Water quality – Chlorine and fluoride in tap water can cause browning; try filtered or distilled water
• Overfertilizing – Flush the soil with plain water to remove salt buildup

Drooping Leaves

Drooping usually means the plant is stressed, and the cause can be either too little water or too much.

• Underwatered: Soil is dry, and leaves perk up after watering
• Overwatered: Soil is wet, and roots may be rotting
• Root rot: Stems feel soft at the base and may smell bad

Check soil moisture before deciding which it is.

No New Growth

If your Monstera hasn’t pushed out new leaves in months, consider:

• Winter slowdown – Completely normal; growth resumes in spring
• Low light – Move to a brighter location
• Rootbound – Check whether roots are circling the pot; it may need repotting
• Nutrient deficiency – Resume fertilizing in the growing season

Quick Problem Diagnosis

Dealing with Pests: Common Monstera Bugs and How to Fight Them

My Monstera hasn’t been pest-free, but most infestations are manageable if you catch them early.

Thrips

Thrips are tiny, slender insects, usually white, yellow or brown. They’re hard to spot until the damage appears.

Signs of thrips:

• Silver or bronze streaks on leaves
• Tiny black dots (their droppings)
• Small, white larvae on leaf undersides
• Leaves that look dry and stippled

Why they’re tricky: thrips reproduce fast. Their lifecycle is about 45 days, and females lay eggs inside plant tissue.

How to treat:

1. Use a lint roller to remove adults from the leaves. It sounds odd, but it works.
2. Spray with a neem oil solution (follow the package dilution and add a few drops of dish soap)
3. For severe cases, use insecticidal soap
4. Repeat treatment every 5-7 days for at least 2-3 weeks
5. Monitor closely, since one treatment rarely eliminates them completely

Spider Mites

Spider mites thrive in dry, warm conditions and are almost microscopic.

Signs of spider mites:

• Fine webbing on leaf undersides
• Tiny dots moving on leaves (use a magnifying glass)
• Leaves that look dusty or stippled
• Yellowing in patches

How to treat:

1. Increase humidity, since mites hate moisture
2. Rinse leaves with a strong stream of water
3. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap
4. Isolate the affected plant to prevent spread

Prevention Tips

Prevention beats treatment. Here’s what I do:

• Quarantine new plants for 2-4 weeks before adding them to your collection
• Inspect regularly – Check leaf undersides every time you water
• Keep leaves clean – Wipe them with a damp cloth monthly to remove dust and spot pests early
• Maintain humidity – Dry conditions invite spider mites

While you’re checking your Monstera, you may also notice other uninvited guests nearby. If you spot spiders building webs around your plants, see our guide on How to Get Rid of Spiders for safe removal methods.

If you move your Monstera outdoors for the summer, watch for other garden pests as well. Stink bugs are notorious hitchhikers that can follow plants back inside.

Is Monstera Toxic to Pets?

Yes. Monstera is toxic to cats and dogs.

According to the ASPCA Poison Control Center, Monstera contains calcium oxalate crystals. If chewed or swallowed, it can cause:

• Oral irritation and burning
• Excessive drooling
• Difficulty swallowing
• Vomiting

Poisoning is rarely life-threatening, but it’s still painful and unpleasant for a pet.

My recommendation: keep Monstera out of reach. Put it on a high shelf or a plant stand, or keep it in a room your pets don’t access.

If you suspect your pet has chewed on Monstera, contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435).

Frequently Asked Questions About Monstera Care

How fast does Monstera grow?

In ideal conditions (bright indirect light, proper watering and warm temperatures), a Monstera can produce 1-2 new leaves per month during the growing season. Growth slows significantly, or stops entirely, in winter.

Can I keep Monstera in low light?

Technically yes, but it won’t thrive. Expect slower growth, smaller leaves and few or no fenestrations. For those split leaves, you’ll need bright indirect light.

Why are my Monstera’s aerial roots so long?

This is normal. Aerial roots help the plant climb and absorb moisture from the air. You have a few options:

• Tuck them back into the soil
• Guide them onto a moss pole
• Trim them if they bother you (it generally won’t hurt the plant)

Can I grow Monstera outdoors?

Yes, but only in USDA zones 10-12 where temperatures stay above 50°F year-round. Outdoor Monstera can grow much larger than indoor plants.

If you plant directly in the ground, be aware that moles can disturb the root system.

When will my Monstera produce fruit?

Rarely, if ever, indoors. A Monstera needs very specific tropical conditions (high humidity, warmth and maturity) to flower and fruit, and most homes can’t replicate them.

The fruit is edible when fully ripe and tastes like a mix of banana and pineapple, but unripe fruit is toxic. Unless you have an outdoor Monstera in a tropical climate, don’t count on harvesting any.

Related Plants You Might Love

These houseplants make good companions for Monstera, though their care needs aren’t all identical.

Pothos – Even more forgiving than Monstera. It tolerates lower light, propagates easily and comes in many varieties, which makes it a good pick for beginners or for filling out a plant collection.

Snake Plant – Very forgiving. It handles low light and infrequent watering, and it’s a good fit for darker corners where a Monstera wouldn’t thrive.

Philodendron – Monstera’s close cousin. Many varieties exist, from trailing types to large upright plants, and the care requirements are similar.

Monstera adansonii – A smaller “Swiss Cheese” variety with even more holes than deliciosa. A good fit if you love the look but have limited space.

Conclusion: You’ve Got This

Caring for a Monstera really comes down to three things: bright indirect light, proper watering and patience.

Three years ago, I started with a tiny plant and zero experience. I made plenty of mistakes (too little light, too much water, no support), and my Monstera nearly died more than once. But it’s resilient, and once I understood what it needed, it grew and eventually produced the fenestrated leaves everyone wants.

Today, my original 4-leaf plant is an 18-leaf showpiece that dominates my living room. I’ve propagated it three times and shared the cuttings with friends and family.

If you’re just starting out, give your Monstera bright light, let the soil dry between waterings and add a stake when it gets tall. Check on it regularly and adjust when you see problems.

What’s your biggest Monstera challenge? Leave a comment below and we can troubleshoot it together.

For a visual walkthrough of Monstera care basics, this video covers watering, light requirements, and repotting: